France Suspends Shein’s Online Access Amid Controversial Store Opening

The French government has suspended access to Shein’s online platform until the fast-fashion retailer demonstrates compliance with local laws. This decision follows a controversy involving listings of sex dolls with childlike features on the company’s website. The announcement coincided with the opening of Shein’s first permanent store in Paris on March 15, 2024, located in the iconic BHV Marais department store.

The Finance Ministry did not clarify whether the suspension would affect the physical store. As of the announcement, customers could still access the French version of Shein’s website and place orders. The timing of this decision has raised significant concerns, particularly as Shein’s Paris store attracted large crowds alongside protests from various groups opposing the retailer’s practices.

Protests and Public Response

During the opening event, a small group of demonstrators waved anti-Shein signs and briefly disrupted the ceremony before being escorted away by security personnel. The backlash against Shein is rooted in its history of poor environmental practices and labor standards. Environmental groups, the Paris City Hall, and the French ready-to-wear industry have all voiced strong objections to the brand’s presence in France.

Despite the controversy, many shoppers were drawn to the store. Ticia Ones, a regular online customer, expressed her excitement about experiencing products in person. “We can see what we order, touch the items, it’s a good thing,” she stated, acknowledging the appeal of Shein’s low prices despite the surrounding criticism.

The Societé des Grands Magasins (SGM), which owns the BHV Marais, condemned the sale of the controversial dolls but commended Shein for its quick response to the issue. Karl-Stéphane Cottendin, the chief operating officer of SGM, remarked, “We are proud to have a partner who has spoken out firmly. We are very happy to be opening the boutique.”

Shein’s Response and Broader Implications

Founded in China in 2012 and now based in Singapore, Shein has rapidly grown into a global fast-fashion leader. The retailer has been criticized for its alleged links to forced labor, particularly regarding conditions in China’s Xinjiang province, where human rights abuses have been reported. In an effort to address these concerns, Shein recently announced it has banned all sex-doll products and temporarily removed its adult products category for review. The company is currently investigating how these listings bypassed its screening processes.

The controversy surrounding Shein’s opening has sparked significant public outrage, demonstrated by an online petition against the store that has gathered over 120,000 signatures. Child-protection and environmental advocacy groups have united in their condemnation of the retailer, amplifying calls for stricter regulations in the fast-fashion sector.

France is taking steps to limit the influence of fast-fashion companies based in Southeast Asia. A proposed draft law aims to impose consumer awareness campaigns, advertising bans, taxes on small imported parcels, and stricter waste management rules. Earlier this year, the French Senate approved this proposal, and the government has communicated with the European Commission regarding the legislation.

Thibaut Ledunois, director of entrepreneurship and innovation at the French federation of women’s ready-to-wear, expressed deep concerns regarding Shein’s impact on the industry. “It’s a black day for our industry. Shein is developing a beautiful showcase in our country, justifying all the bad, and sad and horrible business that they develop all around the world,” he stated.

The environmental costs of fast fashion are significant, contributing nearly 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions and exacerbating water depletion issues. As France grapples with these challenges, the opening of Shein’s store in Paris highlights the ongoing tension between consumer demand for affordable fashion and the urgent need for sustainable practices within the industry.