Fashion’s Green Promises: Are Brands Keeping Their Commitments?

Fashion brands have increasingly emphasized their sustainability efforts, but a recent investigation raises questions about the sincerity of these claims. According to a project led by German outlet DW in collaboration with the European Data Journalism Network, the sustainability commitments of over 200 reports from 17 major European fashion companies were evaluated. The analysis focused on 468 specific targets, ranging from emissions reductions to increased use of recycled materials.

The urgency for transparency in the fashion industry intensified following the tragic Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh in 2013, which resulted in the deaths of 1,134 people. This event exposed the human cost of fast fashion and prompted consumers and activists to demand more accountability from brands.

Luxury vs. Fast Fashion: Who’s More Sustainable?

Consumers often believe that luxury brands are more environmentally responsible than their fast fashion counterparts. However, the data tells a different story. The eight luxury brands analyzed accounted for only about one-third of the total commitments identified. In contrast, Swedish multinational H&M led the way with 70 commitments, followed by Adidas with 45 and Puma with 43. Notably, H&M and Adidas had begun making sustainability pledges in the early 2000s, well before many other companies.

Transparency issues also emerged, as luxury brands like Chanel, Hermès, and LVMH failed to respond to inquiries about their sustainability programs. Rachel Kitchin, a campaigner with the environmental NGO Stand.earth, noted that luxury companies are often “very quiet” about their sustainability efforts, which raises concerns about their accountability.

While some luxury firms demonstrated stronger commitments, the analysis found that many of their pledges lacked specificity. For example, Armani made 15 commitments since 2018, with 11 being clearly defined, such as eliminating single-use plastic in packaging by 2025. In contrast, Puma’s 43 commitments included vague promises, leaving room for interpretation regarding their implementation.

Evaluating the Effectiveness of Sustainability Targets

The analysis revealed that about half of the identified targets were set for future dates. Among the remaining commitments, only half had been achieved, while a third had failed and the rest remained ambiguous. Notably, online retailer Zalando struggled the most, failing to meet 10 out of 17 targets. Its ambitious pledges included using 100% sustainable cotton by 2023 and 100% responsibly sourced animal fibers, none of which were fulfilled. However, Zalando has been transparent about its shortcomings, emphasizing its commitment to accountability.

Conversely, brands like Prada and Moncler performed well in achieving their targets, albeit with a limited number of commitments. For instance, Prada successfully fulfilled five out of six targets, which included replacing diesel vehicles with hybrids. Yet, with 96% of its emissions stemming from its supply chain, the impact of such changes is minimal.

Despite the variation in brand commitments, the lack of regulatory standards allows companies to selectively focus on sustainability, often without meaningful action. The fashion industry’s primary material, polyester, accounts for 59% of fiber production, and while many brands aim to increase the use of recycled polyester, few are actively seeking to reduce their reliance on this fossil fuel-based material.

The urgency for regulatory action is further underscored by the European Commission’s delayed implementation of the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive, which aims to mandate transparency on resource use and sustainability efforts. As the fashion sector significantly contributes to global greenhouse gas emissions, estimated at 2% — nearly as much as aviation — clear action is essential.

Research from the Economic and Social Research Institute (ESRI) highlights a consumer demand for greater transparency regarding the environmental impacts of clothing. The ESRI’s study demonstrated that consumers exposed to eco-labels made more sustainable choices, signaling a strong public interest in informed purchasing decisions.

As the fashion industry grapples with its environmental responsibilities, the findings from this analysis suggest that while many firms are making commitments, the actual implementation and transparency of these pledges remain critical challenges. The need for robust regulation and accountability in the fashion sector is more pressing than ever, as both consumers and the planet demand a sustainable future.